Rust Bucket to S5 Project Car

Discussion in 'Projects, modifications & how to guides' started by AgentH, Nov 30, 2018.

  1. AgentH

    AgentH Type RA Member

    Location:
    United States - PA
    Fellas,

    I will fill in details later. Just keeping this first post open for future explanation.

    In the mean time, I need some feed back from the community so I can continue work this weekend.
     
  2. AgentH

    AgentH Type RA Member

    Location:
    United States - PA
    Here's where I stand.

    I'm trying to remove the rear fenders for fitment The Project's S5 WRC rear fenders. I'm at the point where I need to cut some sheet metal at the B and C pillars. I need some help on where I should cut.
    image004.jpg

    That's the easy part. The hard part is finding where to cut the fender from the trunk lip area. You know, the areas to the left and right of the trunk lid.


    image001.jpg
    image002.jpg
    image003.jpg
    image005.jpg
    Please help!
     
  3. tekkerchrede

    tekkerchrede V-Limited Member

    Basically cut along where the gasket/liner would sit. But you should know this, if taking on that kind of job? If you transfer them to another shell, at first cut out a park being too big, rather than too small. It is to be said I am no bodyshop guy myself.
     
  4. AgentH

    AgentH Type RA Member

    Location:
    United States - PA
    tekkerchrede, thanks for your reply.

    Here is more or less where I stand.

    Driver side: ai.imgur.com_SeNEAwC.jpg
    ai.imgur.com_qeZc83B.jpg

    Passenger Side:
    ai.imgur.com_P87FSWs.jpg

    ai.imgur.com_p1DApPP.jpg

    Since these pictures were taken, I started trimming away at rusty stuff.

    I've got some serious rust to repair and have no experience fixing rust and practically no experience welding.

    My current plan is to cut out the rusty sections and weld in patches. My friend has a flux core mig welder that he is going to lend me. I plan on using that to tack weld the patches into place. The patches don't need to be pretty but they need to be effective at keeping water and grime out. The car will be a nice weather car. I don't plan on driving it in the winter, so further exposure to salt will be minimized. After I have the patches tacked into place, I'd have a friend tig them into place nicely.

    I've also spent a minimum amount of time looking for a different impreza... With the number of holes that I have to patch, the location of the holes (in some impossible to get to spots), I know for sure I'd save time by starting from scratch. But the nice looking imprezas are in california... I'm in PA.... and they are typically over $5k... $5k I don't have budgeted. If I go down that route, that pushes my expensive car part buying down the road many months.

    For now I am going to continue to press forward on my current rust bucket shell. At least I can learn how to weld, bend metal, work with metal, fabrication techniques, ect... I have a lot to learn.
     
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  5. tekkerchrede

    tekkerchrede V-Limited Member

    Thorough explanation there. I would consider it properly, as the car might have low value to a lot of people if not done by high standards..
     
  6. Paul92

    Paul92 V-Limited Member

    Location:
    Rutten
    Do not skip this part. All the rotten steel must be replaced and everything should be sealed correctly, or it will just rot again after a while.

    This is the source of the 'little bit of rust on the arches', like many people call it.
    FB_IMG_1523220810938.jpg FB_IMG_1523220776071.jpg
     
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  7. AgentH

    AgentH Type RA Member

    Location:
    United States - PA
    I spent some time the last couple weekends (only time I can work on it) borrowing a friends flux core mig welder, practicing with it a little ...
    ai.imgur.com_LZxiaFO.jpg

    ...and getting back into prepping for some eventual patch work. In other words, more cutting.

    Still working on the passenger side, I had tons of rot on the sheet metal around the shock tower. It seems like the rust impinged in the most inconvenient to work places possible. I was going to ask for some opinions on how to fix this area before cutting any more, but decided there was no way around it. So I cut this brace out with the intentions of putting it back in later on after patching the areas I cut out. I used a 3" cut off wheel and a 1/4" drill bit to remove it. I drilled a bunch of small holes in the tight corners of the brace where I couldn't get into with the cut off wheel. I only drilled as deep as the brace (not all the way through).

    ai.imgur.com_sEiuOaF.jpg

    After removing that brace, I exposed three heavily rotted out areas:

    ai.imgur.com_2JZL8eI.jpg

    I decided, instead of trying to make several smaller patches, I'd make one big patch. This piece seemed pretty flat and easy to make. So I cut it out. This picture was taken after sanding the surface rust down.

    ai.imgur.com_OME61eF.jpg

    Next up was the rotted out sheet metal at the front of the rear fender.

    ai.imgur.com_Ij2q5ma.jpg

    This area was super rotted out inside. And I either had to cut out good sheet metal from under the car or cut out the good sheet metal that makes up the rocker panel structure. So I cut the outside part with the intentions of welding it back on later.

    ai.imgur.com_AU9pkSr.jpg

    It exposed the badly rusted out sections.

    ai.imgur.com_cvLEHrE.jpg

    I don't have an after picture, but I cut along the red line here. The blue line outlines an area that I will probably cut out after I make a patch to replace it, but I decided to leave it in there as a guide.
    This section is going to be pretty hard to fix I think... I'm feeling pretty dumbfounded and overwhelmed.


    ai.imgur.com_SP5bVEt.jpg

    I'm not sure how I'm going to make these pieces with their slight bends and flanges. I've got some sheet metal, tin snips, and a vice. Any suggestions are welcome.

    Clearly my welding skills are rough. I dm'd Jamie about what kind of welder he recommends. He suggested a 190A Argon shielded mig with fine (digital) control of the power since subaru metal is easy to blow through. I've been looking at millers, hobart, and lincolns, but any suggestions would be great. I'm hoping I can find one on craigslist for cheap.
     
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  8. TYPERV6

    TYPERV6 Owner at The Project

    Location:
    Wicklow, Ireland
    Any idea what happened to the B-Pillar Neil...? I see it's been replaced at some point.

    Have you looked into getting replacement panels rather than patching multiple places. You might find you can get lot of the OEM stuff still that could make life easier. Rear pockets are till available and I gather a lot of the inner rear tubs are too. Most of your inner arch be getting cut out so that's not worth worrying about... the sill sections would be of bigger concern if they have much rust inside them. Would you not consider a cleaner and cheaper L model as the basis for your build. Surely these can be bought for reasonable money over the RS..?
     
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  9. AgentH

    AgentH Type RA Member

    Location:
    United States - PA
    Jamie, the car was hit at some point .passenger side rear quarter and the b-pillar were replaced. I think this is why the trunk area leaked water and caused so much rust in the trunk area including the area just below the rear glass and where the rubber seal sits where the trunk makes contact with the trunk lid. It either started to fail over time or was a botched repair from the beginning. I really should have made sure the car was a no accident car before buying. I was in such a rush to get started on the project though, that I basically bought the first one I found that wasn't a hot mess.

    I have not looked for replacement panels yet. I sort of assume all of the internal structure stuff is no longer produced. Maybe I should spend a few hours and search and call around at least.

    I have found a couple clean looking cars on Craigslist... None of them are local. They are all in California. One particularly nice one is about $5k, so not much cheaper than a seemingly nice coupe. Aside from spending the time and effort having the car inspected by a qualified mechanic, the $5-6k on the car, and another unknown amount to have it shipped, I would then have to get rid of my shell. The logistics are painful. It also puts a hold on everything and takes all of my hard work and throws it out the window. Granted, I have an unknown hurdle to jump w/the restorative body work. I would imagine that I would save time and headaches with starting from scratch on a new car. But there is also the $ aspect. Starting over puts me at least 6 months back financially.
    Most friends/aquantences that know anything about cars think I'm crazy for trying to save the shell.
     
  10. Wally

    Wally Type RA Member

    Location:
    Belgium
    Omg were did you find that shell ? It is honestly said the worst I ever saw.
    That thing is rust walhalla....
     

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