New clutch related problems?

Discussion in 'Subaru Impreza WRX Help & advice' started by coley-gb270, May 23, 2018.

  1. coley-gb270

    coley-gb270 Type RA Member

    Location:
    Nottinghamshire
    Hi all, basically I'm a little worried about the new clutch I've fitted. I have fitted many clutches before but I have never had this problem before. I have a 2007 impreza Gb270, my previous clutch had completely gone so I brought a competition clutch kit stage 2 with new lightened flywheel. All fitted together very well and used dot 5.1 fluid. But after fitting and going forwards and backwards on my driveway to test the clutch was working I started to get a burning clutch smell and a lot of judder? I know these clutches are known for the judder so I'm not too concerned about that. But why the burning smell?? I have been told that maybe it is because the clutch is not broken in yet? Or that my clutch is not adjusted correctly on the rod? But I thought that rod was just for the biting point? Any ideas people? I've never come across a burning clutch sm before after fitting a new one
     
  2. coley-gb270

    coley-gb270 Type RA Member

    Location:
    Nottinghamshire
  3. edsel

    edsel V-Limited Member

    Ive recently fitted a cc clutch and fly wheel with no issues. The first time I fitted a subaru clutch I incorrectly fitted the thrust bearing circlip on the gearbox side expecting the Lever to push the thrust bearing through. It didn't work. Is there play in the arm between the slave cylinder? Did you use an alignment tool? Did you torque the pressure plate down in diagonal sequence? Was the gearbox shaft greased?
    Just brain storming
     
  4. edsel

    edsel V-Limited Member

    Ps there's some good subaru installation videos by excedy on you tube
     
  5. coley-gb270

    coley-gb270 Type RA Member

    Location:
    Nottinghamshire
    Yeah everything was set to the correct tourqe settings and was tightened in the correct sequence and yes the shaft was lightly greased and are you meaning play on the cylinder arm that goes to the clutch fork? If you do there's definitely no play. But one thing you said is making me think, a circlip around the thrust bearing??? It didn't have one to start with, it only got put back the way it came apart.
     
  6. coley-gb270

    coley-gb270 Type RA Member

    Location:
    Nottinghamshire
    Also the alignment tool was used, I wouldn't do it without one.
     
  7. edsel

    edsel V-Limited Member

    sorry not a good the description of the circlip. The circlip fits to the inside of the pressure plate and retains the thrust. If you fitted a new pressure plate it would have come fitted from the factory.
    When fitted in correctly the fork/arm doesn't sit in the tabs properly and flaps about, this obviously isn't the issue You have :(

    Might be of use

    https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2774222.

     
  8. coley-gb270

    coley-gb270 Type RA Member

    Location:
    Nottinghamshire
    Oh I see what you are saying now but... My old one didn't have that and neither did my new one? I will put pictures up of my new kit and my old one. And before anyone mentions yes I did absolutely kill my old friction plate lol
     

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  9. edsel

    edsel V-Limited Member

    Hate to say it but it sounds like it's not releasing properly and it's gonna have to come out again.
    I fitted the same kit but with the cc lightened fly wheel. When I was researching clutches I read some horror stories about cc but I've also heard bad things about exedy and other brands.
     
  10. asperformance

    asperformance Site Supporter

    Location:
    oop north
    going by your profile you have a Hawk 2.5 which uses a PUSH set-up rather the more traditional Subaru PULL type used on most of the turbo models......that guide is nothing to worry about as its wrong for you and you won't have any 'clip'

    one thing that can be an issue on that style of car is the pressed steel clutch fork which is prone to wear / burst causing clutch selection issues

    presuming you cleaned all the transport grease, etc. and fitted correctly then it may simply be because of the more aggressive material on the CC causing the smell, personally i would bed it in and make sure its not slipping in any form
     
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