96 Sti RA buget engine rebuild

Discussion in 'Projects, modifications & how to guides' started by edsel, Jan 24, 2013.

  1. edsel

    edsel V-Limited Member

    Follow up from this thread http://www.type-ra.com/subaru-forum...um/14471-going-view-96-sti-ra-tomorrow-3.html

    Santa broght me a new engine stand and camera for xmas so I thought I'd have a go an engine rebuild thread... I ve had the motor out for a while but have been waiting for some time to make space in the garage.

    My sons bought me a seely engine stand so it seemed rude not to make a start .... I downloaded the 93-96 manual and bought some plastic boxes from the pound shop to try and keep things organised

    Engine on stand, I think its an early wrx bottom end with sti ancillaries?

    aimageshack.us_a_img818_1998_dscn0174f.jpg



    aimageshack.us_a_img542_3871_dscn0122h.jpg



    Took loads of pictures of cable routes connectors etc for future reference and started the teardown. Lovely engine to work on, I managed to get by without buying any specialist tools. Took the cam covers off and found this...


    aimageshack.us_a_img16_3348_dscn0201lc.jpg


    Two exh cam caps with loose and broken bolts... Rightly or wrongly I used a large spanner on the shaft flats to hold the cam to undo the pulley bolts taking care not to put pressure on the casting.



    aimageshack.us_a_img99_9541_dscn0256j.jpg

    Luckily I was able to winkle out the broken threads. I guess thats why it sounded a bit noisy Thinking
    I Was flying along removing bolts and parts placing them in tubs and boxes as I went along. Care was taken to lay out and mark head parts in order of removal.

    aimageshack.us_a_img5_6066_20101212012.jpg



    Was very tempted to bolt the caps down and put it back in but looking at the instant gasket oozing out of the joints I decided to do a full strip. Flipped the motor over and removed oil the oil pan..... Was greeted with this !!!

    aimageshack.us_a_img163_3425_dscn0205od.jpg

    WTF! silver foil doing in the sump???

    aimageshack.us_a_img826_8686_dscn0216t.jpg

    As predicted a load of instant gasket in the pick up pipe, at this point Im glad I went the whole hog with a full strip.

    Block halve bolts removed and thought I didnt need any specialist knowledge or tools to seperate the halves and remove the pistons Nop


    Found a couple of good piston removal guides on youtube. I made my own Wrist/gudgeon/pin puller tool using 10mm stud bar.

    Easy way to pull Subaru pistons - YouTube


    pulling pistons out of Subaru block - YouTube


    After ten minutes on the bench grinder I came up with this.



    aimageshack.us_a_img17_558_dscn0242sk.jpg

    Marked the pistons and conrod caps.

    aimageshack.us_a_img824_8027_20101212005.jpg


    Inspected to bearing surfaces, mains not too bad but big ends are on thier way out. Oil starvation?
    Note to self to throughly clean oil ways and renew oil pump.


    aimageshack.us_a_img580_6788_dscn0247bx.jpg


    aimageshack.us_a_img40_3629_20101212009.jpg


    Oil squriters/cooling jets on a wrx open block? I thought only sti cdb blocks had them :confused:


    aimageshack.us_a_img715_6513_dscn0245tk.jpg


    TBC .....

    aimg19.imageshack.us_img19_3315_20101212028.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2013
  2. ASJ

    ASJ Moderator

    Location:
    Bristol, UK
    Thanks for the pics and descriptions...........very interesting.

    That tin foil wot Were the health bar and the receipt in the block too :loll:

    100% sure you will end up with a better product at the end of your refresh than you started with......

    Rgds, Ade
     
  3. type-ra

    type-ra Administrator

    Location:
    West Yorkshire
    Great to see someone getting their hands dirty :bow

    Seems to be a few more of the early cars being restored to their former glory these days too.

    Keep us posted :cheers:

    Dean
     
  4. edsel

    edsel V-Limited Member

    I spent hours resizing the pics in the thread and then found out the forum resizes automatically Patience
    I dont mind getting my hands dirty if it stops me taking money out of my wallet :cheers:

    I called it a buget build, the other night I was on advance autos site and test drove a shopping cart that had £800 worth of oem goods in it. I cut a few corners too :eek:

    £300 gaskets
    £100 bolts
    £100 bearings
    £180 oil pump
    £70 cam belt
    £100 rings

    I have to add plugs, filters, oil and Fluids to that. Add the other sundries like 3bond and a few hose clips and this is going to cost well over £1000 to complete. I reckon its going to cost a grand without any forged or go faster parts added Thinking

    I think Im going to be sitting here making vroom vroom pshh noises for a bit. The plan is to get it ready for early summer.

    aimageshack.us_a_img5_8757_20101212024.jpg
     
  5. Topper Harley

    Topper Harley V-Limited Member

    Location:
    Westmeath Ireland
    Few quid adds up very quickly . All worth it in the end.
    Good luck with the build .
     
  6. type-ra

    type-ra Administrator

    Location:
    West Yorkshire
  7. Bizz

    Bizz V-Limited Member

    Location:
    Isle of Wight
    The oil pump does not need to be replaced, you can give it a good clean and all will be fine.
    Edited: I've just spoken to my engine builder and he said it's not quite that simple, the impeller needs to be checked for scoring and the back plate needs a special sealer used when putting it back together.

    The oil modine on the other hand does need to be replaced.
    Edited: Due to the high cost of these, I've been told some people are now cleaing and re-using. I'm not suggesting it's a good idea, just what I've been told is happening.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2013
    • Like Like x 1
  8. edsel

    edsel V-Limited Member

    Thanks for that. Silly question maybe but what does the modine do? I thought it acted as an oil cooler?
     
  9. Bizz

    Bizz V-Limited Member

    Location:
    Isle of Wight
    Is it a cooler. It helps bring the engine up to operating temp quicker too.

    It was always said that you had to change it for a new one as you would not be able to get 100% of any debris out of it, but I've been told some tuners are now cleaning them out and re-using.

    I personally would buy new.
     
  10. spudboytim

    spudboytim Type RA Member

    Location:
    cheshire
    Hi, bud ive just done a similar rebuild on my v2 typr ra, did all the work myself apart from machining work it cost in total £800-1000 to do a full refresh. All new acl race bearings/ mains/bigs/smalls, new rings/ bores glaze busted, all valves faced and seated, all tollerences checked, crank lightly polished, all new gaskets/ steel headgaskets, reused the oil pump and head bolts. New modine even though the engine had'nt had a failure previous to the refresh.

    Import car parts are very good and supply oem gaskets/parts/sealant at a very good price.

    Good look with it all, nothing more pleasing than hearing a engine make a noise after rebuilding it youself!! Looks like your doing a good job. Tim.:cheers:
     
    • Like Like x 1

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